Michael Southgate

20 March 2019 at 02:56 #53002

Hello Ted,
I know someone with an Invicta local to me here in Australia I’m happy to give him a call to ask about how the rev counter on his car is arranged. Following that, perhaps I can put him in contact with you directly.
All the best, Mike

Michael Southgate

20 March 2019 at 02:45 #53001

The pressure plate is ready for pick-up, but they are nervous about removing the carrier bearing in case they damage something. Does anyone have any advice for its removal? Apparently there’s a locking ring and it’s this they are not sure how to remove to release the bearing.
Regards, Mike

Michael Southgate

6 March 2019 at 12:12 #52993

Thanks Laurence,
As usual, very helpful with information. For a thrust bearing, I’d have expected the races front and back, rather than inner and outer as this one is. Any idea where an original type can be found? I’ll take some measurements of what was in it to find a suitably sized thrust bearing replacement.
Mike

Michael Southgate

5 March 2019 at 22:27 #52991

Well, the clutch was removed and taken to a local specialist, and they’ve finally confirmed that they can rebuild the pressure plate. It should be done by the end of this week, and the cost wasn’t too unreasonable.
I will also have the carrier bearing replaced, which should also be no problem.
This just leaves the thrust bearing, which I got apart to remove the bearing. It’s branded FBC and marked XLS 1-7/8 and should be commercially available. The question is, is it the correct bearing? The one available through the club spares looks different.

Attached files

Michael Southgate

2 December 2018 at 07:52 #52948

Thank you Laurence for your reply.
No choice words on finding the starter motor pinion on the floor, just surprise… ;). I hadn’t planned on removing it until it happened, so it wasn’t my hamfistedness that caused it (this time…).

Thanks for your advice on removing the cardan shaft. I was hoping not to move the gearbox to avoid the risk of misalignment – I read another thread describing how to re-align and I don’t really want to go through that. Also, wouldn’t that involve disconnecting the prop shaft off the rear of the gearbox? Can you gain that inch just by removing the flexible couplings, or is there something that goes through their centre that means you can’t slide them out after all the bolts are removed?

Thanks for the description of the removal of the gear selector, I feel more at ease about that now. I’ll also have to re-consult the manual I have for adjusting the clutch before I take the drastic measure of removing the assembly.

Finally, where is the body number located? All I’ve found is a brass plate on the firewall which is stamped with the type (LG6.DHC), and the engine and chassis number I think (both of which are 12310). The engine is stamped with LG6/444/S4 and 12310. There are two other plaques in the door openings just above the running boards on either side which say “coachwork by Lagonda” but no numbers. Is there anywhere else I should look?

Many thanks again,
Mike

Michael Southgate

2 December 2018 at 07:37 #52947

Thank you both, Bill and Mark,
The Lucas M45A replacement option sounds good to me, I’ll do some investigations locally to see if I can find one here in Australia.
Regards, Mike

Michael Southgate

2 October 2018 at 06:01 #52876

Thanks Bill,
I have found a stockist in Australia, and another who can get one, so all good there. And yes, I intend to get some new washers and some spares, although I carry a kit of fibre washers of various sizes that has got me and others out of trouble in the past.
Thanks, Mike

Michael Southgate

26 September 2018 at 04:09 #52868

Thanks Mark,
The name of the supplier is helpful in itself, thanks. If I can’t find a suitable replacement locally, that tip will be very helpful.
Thanks again, Mike

Michael Southgate

7 March 2018 at 04:50 #52683

Hi Colin,
Thanks for asking. I made the rally but I ended up putting the car back together without the ignition/hand throttle controls. The parts didn’t arrive until the day before I had to leave, so I didn’t have time to fit them, but we made it and that’s the main thing.

Steering box is back out of the car and back at the workshop to further improve the roller/worm gear clearance – there was too much play still. They will mount to the bench with the steering wheel and pre-load to adjust correctly, and also have a look at the tubes to get them working again.

Cheers, Mike

Michael Southgate

1 February 2018 at 21:20 #52648

Hello Colin,
That is indeed good news. I’ve already asked the question through the club website, so I’ll follow that up with the number you provided, and perhaps provide some measurements for comparison before proceeding. Yes, I am a paid up member (S82). I might just make it in time for the Rutherglen Classic, thanks to your help.

Thank you too, Laurence. To answer your question, the inner-most tube (ignition) rotates freely, but if I try to withdraw it from the shaft, it gets stuck at around about the place where I can see damage on the outer shaft. I can barely get the middle shaft (throttle) to withdraw at all, and only by applying some blows with a hammer and wood block so as not to damage the shaft any further. I have tried heat, without success.

Thank you both again for your responses, this forum is worth its weight in gold!

Regards, Mike

Michael Southgate

11 December 2017 at 21:10 #52572

Further update: The cross-shaft supplied was different from the one on the car – the original is longer – but the supplier has very helpfully sent a disassembled roller and pin, to which the original cross-shaft can be mounted. We will return the roller/cross-shaft assembly first sent, along with some measurements of the original cross-shaft so they have them on record for the next person who needs these parts.

I have yet to source the gaiter that seals the steering column where it passes through the firewall. The Lagonda club doesn’t have these. I am looking at alternatives that could be modified, and perhaps a gearshift gaiter is going to be the most likely candidate, but if anyone has suggestions, or pictures of their gaiter, original or otherwise, I’d be happy to hear/see them.
Regards, Mike

Michael Southgate

8 November 2017 at 20:54 #52542

A quick update. I had success in removing the steering hub and the box/column assembly was removed. I took the box to a local(ish) specialist in pre-war cars for them to dismantle, and they found what I had already suspected – the thrust bearings had lunched themselves.

For some reason I thought the steering box was a Bishop Cam type, probably going off what was available in the Lagonda spares catalogue. In fact, it’s a Marles steering box, and there is a company making parts for them. I contacted them through their website http://www.marlessteeringbox.com and after providing them with the various numbers cast or stamped on the various parts, along with a few critical measurements, they provided a quote to supply the necessary parts.

I now await their arrival so re-assembly of the box can begin. Fingers crossed the car will be back on the road before Christmas.

Regards, Mike

Michael Southgate

18 September 2017 at 04:00 #52477

Finally plucked up the courage for this job, and it’s progressed to the point of removal, apart from the steering wheel end of the steering column.

The wheel itself is off, by removing the screws that attach each spoke to the hub. The stator tubes for ignition/hand throttle are also off.

Can anyone offer any advice on how to get the collar/clamp off the main shaft? The clamping bolt is out but the collar doesn’t seem to want to move, so I thought I’d ask before I apply too much force.

Looking down the inside of the shaft, there appears to be a keyway, so perhaps it’s just a tight fit, but with this part still on, it’s too large to pass through the hole in the firewall.

Also, does anyone know if the gators are available? Mine has disintegrated, and I suspect it wasn’t the original anyway, being rubber.

Many thanks in advance, Mike

PS. By the way, there are a few photos on the Lagonda Owners Facebook group

Michael Southgate

5 June 2017 at 09:41 #52399

Hello Laurence,
Thanks again for your advice, I will check on those items.

I believe the idler arms were attended to as part of a fair bit of work which included a new steering kit from LMB. I believe also that the kingpins were done relatively recently when my dad was still looking after it, but it’s worth checking on the lubricating system as you suggest. One other job I’d like to get onto is the jacking system, but that’s a subject for another post I feel…

I’ve sent you a PM via the forum, I hope that works.

Thanks again, Mike

Michael Southgate

1 June 2017 at 00:44 #52396

Thanks Laurence for your reply.
My plan is to use a local guy, recommended by a friend who is using him for this job on his Railton restoration, and who used to own a Rapier.

Thanks for your kind offer to provide some photos, I’ll send you an email to take you up on that.

Regards, Mike