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I?ve tried again with the picture. By the way it is all in conventional cellulose as original.
The respray is well advanced now. I went for the original maroon, or at least as close as I could get which is RAL 3004 – purple red. I hope that you like the colour.
Lagonda1928 wrote: I would suggest that you might try contacting Bishopgray and see if they can help you.
There is another potential issue with the fuel switch in that the internal hole diameters are slightly too small and can restrict fuel flow particularly when running for long periods with large throttle openings such as on a Motorway….. which probably wasnt a big problem in the 1920’s ! While you are working on the switch, unless this has already been done, it might also be worthwhile trying to see if you can get the holes enlarged.
Thanks for this. Graham
Hi Colin,
I?ve been so into my Lagonda that I missed this post. In the following pics you should see
1. Lock with sawn off release
2. Sawn off release lever
3. New Laser cut lever
4. Re-assembled lock with new lever
If I?ve uploaded correctly. . . . ,Hi gentlemen,
I have my fuel system down presently and am also considering the condition of this valve. Did either of you solve the problem of gaskets?
Thanks
GrahamHi gentlemen,
I have my fuel system down presently and am also considering the condition of this valve. Did either of you solve the problem of gaskets?
Thanks
GrahamColin M34 wrote: Hi Edward,
Just to add to Laurence’s wise words. You would not normally have a voltage regulator on your car because it has a “third brush” which activates the field. This turns the dynamo into a constant current device. There are two settings – “Winter” and “Summer”. The first one is higher and typically 10 amps. The 3rd brush is moved so that with all the lights on the dynamo is just charging the battery with around 1.5 amps. With the lights off this will overcharge the battery so the summer setting trickle charges the battery.I have modified my 2 Litre dynamo to turn it into a constant voltage type with an external solid-state regulator. This works pretty well.
I hope I have adequately explained this lot here…
Colin M34
Hi Colin,
Does this mean that we need the 11 Amp electronic charge regulator circuit for a 2 litre?
Looking at removing a brush now . . .
Thanks
GrahamJust for general information, I have now dismantled the near side door lock and found that the internal opening lever has bee crudely hacksawn off just inside the lock. I have commissioned replacements to be made from mild steel by laser cutting. I?m just hoping that they will be adequate.
Further careful investigation of the door frame has revealed some screw holes – I shall improvise the lock slides.
GrahamHi Tim,
I hope you are still active and covid19 free. I am in the process of finishing the restoration of my family 14/60 and would appreciate a copy of your book too.
Thanks
Gjswindley@gmail.comMark,
Thanks for this. Yes it does help. I don?t suppose anyone knows of a secondhand pair of these sliding door openers do they?
Having said that I can see no holes in the timber of 5he door frame – I guess they must be secured to the frame?
Also have spoken to a previous owner who is pretty sure that it did not have them in 1959.
GrahamPF 8334 Instruments
PF8334 Engine bay
Pictures – 2nd attempt
At long last the picture of PF8334, now in my possession.
GrahamColin,
Yes the split screens do make them look very 1920s. I forgot to add the registration no. PF 8334. The leather is less good than the example you mention but I am to receive sufficient Connolly hides with which to restore it. It is generally un-molested as far as I can tell. It comes complete with new double duck hood and earlier side-screens.
Graham