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We have now stripped the doors and wings back to bare metal and built the engine support chassis, slow but progress is being made
Latest pics of 16027 engine showing the new rear oil seal arrangenent, the scroll on thwe old seal area is filled with Loctite Metal Magis Steel and the new stainless ring shrunk on to the scroll area.
We did not want to remove the crank as all looks as new inside the crankcase.
The water jacket side plates are made from aluminium 10mm plate and machined for the cooling fins, finally cleaned up round the bolt area with an end mill.
New stainless 3/16 SS dome nuts complete the job.Dear Peter,
nice input, this will help me when I start a general overhaul of my V12 engine (as soon as I find time and courage to start). The domed nuts is a good idea to prevent water creeping through the threads and looks good. How do you seal the bottom? with an aluminium washer? On my engine this was not a problem so far, I have put enough sealant on the plate faces when I had removed them once but a friend?s V12 has water trickling through the threads on the waterplates.
Can you add a photo of your crankshaft to see the shrunk on ring? how did you shrink it on (assuming it cools down very fast when touching the big cold mass of the crankshaft?
Hi Peter x2,
Dome nuts were not original fitments on the water jacket plates. If water is leaking along the threads, it follows that the gasket material is insufficient or past its best. Alternatively, the jacket plates being aluminium, corrode quite badly, so it is possible that leakage is a sign that the plates need replacement…urgently!When I bought my V12 I noticed the inner V plates were looking iffy, and had a good idea, thinking I’d unbolt them, use them as templates for cutting out some thick copper sheet, & bolt them back over that. Unbolted one….& there’s some thick copper sheet there already!
Laurence
We have not yet fitted the sleeve on the crank scroll but we have a 2.5 thou interference and the Loctite will do the rest ,we hope !.
We do not use the dowls, the oil seal will centralize the plate on the crankshaft and the clearance on the flange holes will allow that to happen. The old retaining nuts are refitted.
The side plates have been painted with two part epoxy inside. We will use one of the normal anti corrosive addatives in the water.
I could stand corrected but the retaining studs on ,my engine are in blind holes so we do not currently have a water leak problem. and I appreciate the nuts are not correct ,but thet do finish the job nicely.I would like to just to share with you all a couple of pics of the front end of my car as it now stands, a long job but it is a thorough one and each and everypart has been renovated completely.
The water pump is all new and ex uk, the shock absorbers are rebuilt with new internals, the front cross member was replaced (accident damage) by a part from the club.
the oil filter has been extended and reworked to fit paper element
filters, the rear crank oil seal is now a modern lip seal.
We took the heads off and the inside of the cylinders were like new we did however have to replace a few valves and re-cut the seats.
Inspection inside the sump revealed everything in first class order so we did not delve any further.
Lots of parts have been plated or powder coated and the side covers over the engine water jacket re-manufactured in 10mm ally with cooling fins milled into them, these are retained with stainless dome nuts, very pretty!
The bulkhead behind the engine was replaced and laser cut from 10mm ally plate and the original brass beading re -attatched to the edge.
I,m very happy so far , some of the body parts are back to bare ally and so far primed ready for finish paint ( deep maroon I think)petemick
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