• Hans Van Wortel
    20 December 2023 at 19:18 #65937

    I just had the v12 saloon 16054 out of Australia.

    But the valves and seats where very rusty so no compression on 4 cyl. ( standing still to long).

    I lifted the heads and see they had used modern head gaskets.

    But strange is that if you look at the gasket waterholes,

    underside there are 2 holes in the engine block two in the gasket and two large triangles in the head. So oke.

    in the middle there are 4 big holes around 3/4 in the gasket and the head but not in the engine. Strange and it looks that they never bin there??


    Then on the upper line I see in the engine 1 rond hole arond 7 mm in the middle but on the head two round holes at a side.

    In the gasket they made a long hole i think to cennect these two head holes with the one at the engine block side. But the long holes in the gasket  are to short to connect the three holes together,so no water flow around here.

    Is this a mistake or did they do this with a reason.
    I think  for best cooling they all have to be connected.

    Us there someone who knows this.

    Hans van Wortel







    Australia mr whites but the engine

    L C Hannam
    31 December 2023 at 11:12 #65971

    This will be easier to follow if you could take photos of your block and heads bare, and with the gaskets in place. That said, if you compare the images of the Club Spares gaskets on this site with your gaskets, and the holes match, I wouldn’t worry about it. It is fairly common for gaskets to have holes with no apparent purpose, and indeed for orifices in cylinder heads and blocks to be blocked by the gasket/and/or their mating block/head surface.


    Hans Van Wortel
    10 February 2024 at 09:26 #67082

    Thanks Laurence,

    for the reply but I worked it out in the meantime.

    i compare the head and block and realise the sleeves have to be a bit longer.

    i made new mls gaskets and in the meantime the engine is running.

    the next problem is the ignition timming,

    the said in the book 30 degrees but by wich rpm or by how many degrees by 1000 rpm.

    i also started today at the waterpump wich is leaking out off the drain hole quit a lot.


    L C Hannam
    10 February 2024 at 10:30 #67083

    Hi Hans,

    Not sure that making a different gasket is the answer, you may be fixing a problem that does not exist. Be careful, you deviate from standard with these V12 engines at your peril.

    Annoyingly there is a fair bit of dismantling to do to get to dismantle the water pump itself. If the engine has been standing and not run for some time, it may just be that the sealing carbon ring needs to bed to its mating face on the impeller. If the seal is original, it will be a brass bellows with graphite ring bonded. The bellows may have fatigued. Most importantly, the dome nut retaining the impeller has a left hand thread. If you try to unscrew that in the “normal” direction, you will break the threaded spigot off the water pump shaft … just as a previous owner of my V12 did.

    Ignition timing. I’ve read the Club revised handbook, and it is not specifically stating 30 degrees as a timing setting … merely that, if the distributors are still functioning as they should, that a maximum of 30 degrees advance should be apparent. This revised book is no more helpful than the original handbook as to actually setting the timing. All that either state is that one should set the STATIC ignition at top dead centre. That should be used as a starting point. Modern petrol is far superior to that available when these cars were new, furthermore if your compression ratio has been increased, both factors would make an original factory setting useful as a guide only. Therefore I can but suggest you set static at TDC, run the engine up and watch advance increase, and hope it gets to around 30 degrees. You then know things are working as they should. From there, you can try altering the timing to see if it runs better at a different setting. You should have a vernier setting with degrees marked on the distributor mounting, which at least makes adjustment easy.

    Hans Van Wortel
    15 February 2024 at 18:31 #67137

    Dear Laurence,

    Thanks  for your reply.

    In the meantime I dismantled the waterpomp and see its a mesh inside.

    They  made a mechanical seal in it ,wich also worn and then put an o ring in it to close it.

    ( for a few seconds,)

    So i machined a new bush in the house at the seal place. The bras bellow is not there.

    I not damaged/ machine the housing so i have always the open road for another solution.

    (By my sunbeam they used grease cord just like a ship but i suggest this can not have the pressure in this pressured system.)

    With the new bush i bin able to make a double high pressure vitton oil seal in it ,with in between a grease space.
    I have no idea if this is the right way but  try.

    Thanks for your advise about the ignition timing, i try this after everything is build back in place from the waterpump.

    its a very logical option starting static at tdc..








    L C Hannam
    17 February 2024 at 10:34 #67146

    Hi Hans,

    My engine was subsequently rebuilt professionally, and I see they replaced the original bellows arrangement with a modern graphite/viton seal, with a ceramic? ring araldited to the rear face of the impeller. I went to that firm because I knew the guy had much expertise on these engines, including reliable race versions … so I’m satisfied his conversion is a good one. Basically, there is plenty of room there to make up your own arrangement. You just need to be satisfied that the seal itself is watertight where it fits, and that the sprung pressure against the impeller is neither too heavy or light. I presume the ceramic ring either presents a better sealing surface for the graphite face of the seal … or it is a means of extending the impeller sealing face rearwards to suit the replacement seal. Be aware that you may well have brass shims for the body casing of the pump. These are to facilitate positioning of the pump body so that the impeller does not contact either internal face of the pump. The impeller sits on a taper, so its position there cannot be altered.

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